The Wizard of OZ

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The world is full of magic… patiently waiting for our senses to grow sharper.

W.B.Yeats

 

“Toto,… there is no place like home,” however, escorting the golden sunrise across the Kansas wheat fields… AWE-inspiring. Over this Fourth of July  weekend  I followed my  own “yellow brick road” the Transamerica Bike Trail (Route76).  I pedaled  250  hazardous miles from El Dorado, Hutchinson, Lamed, Ness City and finally to Garden City, Kansas.  I’m on my way to the Emerald City (Pueblo Colorado).

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Trekking down this tornado alley Gnomeboy and  I drafted behind a  mammoth  John Deere tractor until the Munchkin farmer from Lollipop land parallel parked the monster in front of an aging Dairy Queen.  Like they say, “Nothing drives like a Deere.”  East of Quivira National Wildlife Refuge a roving pack of oversized red combines harvested winter wheat, while I cropped  their photograph for my blog.

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Out on the American prairie, flags ripple from trucks, trains and flagpoles. Located on the eastern edge of the Great Plains and the geographic center of the contiguous 48 states (Smith Co.), Kansas radiates red, white and blue.  Born during the Civil War, the 34th state is a  phat, flat breadbasket, baked inside a very harsh climate.  Freedom is not free bumper stickers, and  silver truck nuts chawed out, “Scarecrows need not apply.”  This week Kansas encountered floods, tornadoes, and hail  but side stepped locusts, drought, and blizzards.  I’m hoping to dodge the lions and tigers,  “Oh my.”

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I am in AWE of Kansas’s mountainous harvest, a by-product of  loamy, sandy soil. Hutchinson built a grain elevator one half mile long that holds 46 million bushels of grain.  I included a picture of the grain elevator at Tennis, Kansas for grins (pic below).  The colossal corn crop last fall filled every Kansas silo.  With the elevators still brimming,  co-ops piled up the monumental winter wheat harvest on the Tarmac (pic below).

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While America anticipated an unflawed  Independence Day  birthday party,  I expected afternoon fireworks from  Kansas’s violent weather.  During the morning, mild mannered winds swept by without an up draft. Dodge City, twenty miles from Lamed (pic below), is the windiest city in the United States with an average wind speed of 14 mph.

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The afternoon heat index topped 100 outlawed degrees. The humidity added oppressive weight to the air.  The Route 66 Bike Race cancelled because of the unpredictable, dangerous weather. By late afternoon Mariah, they call the wind Mariah out here,  thundered by at 30 miles an hour (pics above).  Dark thunderclouds resembling  flying monkeys warned me of danger while trekking through this land of Oz.  Shelter on the open prairie could be and hour’s ride away. 

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Dorthy was no where to be seen as these  horrific cumulonimbus  thunderclouds cycled by every afternoon.“I do believe,” she escaped somewhere over the rainbow. The torrential rains saturated this flat  land, and the creeks  overflowed. One thousand acre lakes temporarily surfaced (pic below) and flooded some state roads.

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For three days I rode with Multiple Sclerosis Bike across America.  As the day progressed, their menagerie stretched out into five  or six riding groups.  I  stopped for daily photo ops and read the historic markers.  And so would eventually bike and chat with the entire group.  Each rider raised several thousands dollars, and then spent three months biking coast to coast. Erne remained my favorite rider (pic below).  He impersonated  Ray Bolger, the Scarecrow,  in the Wizard of Oz.

“My wife thinks I’m crazy! No brains!”  He mimicked his wife’s sigh, “to try and  bike across the country at your age.”  He turned 60 this year. He smiled and joked  all day long. In the picture below Erne was halfway home, with his bucket list  slowly getting shorter.

 

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The group had two assigned SAG stops each day.   On Sunday, all twenty riders stopped for an hour’s rest at the Quivira National Wildlife Refuge (pics below). With the storm monkeys screeching, I resumed riding after a five minute photo op.  That afternoon Mariah raced across Kansas from the Southeast to the Northwest.  “ I’ll get you my pretty, and your little dog too,” she wailed!

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Traveling due west on Rt.19, I outpaced Mariah to Lamed, as her lighting flashed and  her thunder ripsawed. An hour behind, my companions were drenched and pelted in that witches’ brew east of Lamed (pic below).  However, no cyclists were  sent flying  like Miss Almira Gulch to Munchkinland .  The picture below was taken while safe and miles west of Mariah’s fury.  After surviving the hail storm, the MS crew were more adamant  about avoiding  Mariah’s AWEather fury.

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Patriotic Garden City put on a great, July Fourth spectacle as sorcerers’ apprentices exploded firecrackers, detonated munitions, and blasted off Roman candles. The navy-blue cosmos smirked as distant fireworks drifted back to earth, illuminating the Milky Way.   To flush out Leo crouching behind Virgo and Ursa Major, the Pointer Stars of the Big Dipper drenched the Cowardly Lion with yellow strawed light.

Without glare, light pollution, or skyglow, the evening’s celestial bowl was awesome. I was knocking on heaven’s door, awestruck by constellations close enough to touch.   The beautiful night illuminated the flawed state motto (Ad astra per sera) “to the stars through difficulty” witch personified the Kansas mindset (pic below).  It’s strange how Kansas  sparked my imagination.

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As the birthday party started to fizzle, I felt the urge to get  back home to Kentucky.  Off to the left, I heard a soft Siren’s voice. “Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain… Oscar Zoroaster Phadrig Isaac Norman Henkle Emmannuel Ambroise Diggs.”

 Awestruck, I looked around, and among  the ultraviolet shadows I could spy a tall, slender woman below a faded, golden torch.   In the distance Roman candles popped. She beckoned with her left hand for me to approach.   She was much older than I expected, and had very striking,  Roman features.  She called herself  Libertas. “Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.” she repeated. ” You know that Wizard doesn’t really control Oz.

She opened the palm of her hand  “ I have a small gift for you.”  With the torch directly above, it resembled  a small, dull stone.

“Hold the stone.”

As I did so,  an old memory sparkled like a  living hologram.   First I could see Maisy and her newborn face. Next I noticed Maisy’s actions, her tiny hand moving slowly and eventually cupping Judy’s small pinky.  Finally, I could behold the glow on my wife’s face. In a single and yet boundless moment Judy felt the presence of her granddaughter.  She quoted Dylan Thomas, “The force that through the green fuse drives the flower drives my green age.”   She had not trekked one mile, had never left home, but at that moment  she  experienced something vast and limitless.  Judy was in AWE.

img_0493-1Libertas interrupted my fugue state of mind.

“For  biking unsupported and outwitting my sister Mariah, I present to you  this small stone.  In the future, you will unearth more of them.  Remember to see, to hear and to find awe everyday, everywhere and in everything.”

“Don’t leave home without it.”   She chuckled to herself

“Mike, my Independence Day wish for you is freedom,”  she hesitated.  “But finish your trek, and  go home.  Be the Wizard of AWE.” 

And with that, like all good protagonists, she exited Stage Right.

I still have a long way to go before I get back home.

But If that’s not nice I don’t know what is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Road to Recovery

 

“The fact that man knows right from wrong proves his intellectual superiority to the other creatures; but the fact that he can do wrong proves his moral inferiority to any creatures that cannot.”

― Mark Twain, What Is Man?

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Gnomeboy kept repeating, “Get up! Get up! Get dressed!  Get dressed!   We’re late!  We’re late!”  I had overslept.  My dream slipped away as a “Yosemite Sam lookalike”  kept firing a  semi automatic, Remington revolver  in my left ear.  A red flag with the words BANG kept popping out.

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I  had a difficult time sleeping last night with these cheap motel  walls. The couple next door fought and  partied  all night long.  “You ornery fur-bearing’ rebel … you’ll pay for this!” “I’m Yosemite Sam … The meanest, toughest, rip-roaringest, Edward Everett Horton-est hombre whatever packed a six shooter!” After midnight, Mother Nature detonated “a root’n, toot’n wall bang’n, thunder and lightning shoot out.” The thunderstorm exploded while the couple next door reloaded ammo. “Ya better say your prayers,… I’m-a-gonna blow ya house to smithereens!”

Just after sunrise the temperature shot past eighty degrees and the humidity soared.    While I was nursing a hangover from sleep deprivation , the weatherman forecasted several days of high heat, humidity and severe afternoon thunderstorms.  “When I say whoa! … I mean whoa! “Dang nab it.”  The only positive forecast predicted a 5 mile an hour wind blowing from East to West.  Last year, the prevailing winds were  a sustained twenty miles an hour, West to East.

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After a hot shower, chocolate milk, and a muffin, Gnomeboy and I pedaled  the road to recovery , or at least Rt. 54 to El Dorado, Kansas. Gameboy had already hopped on the front bag.  He resembled an Oklahoma “Sooner” in his rush to rendezvous with his Kansas cousins.  The roads were wet but had no standing water.

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The pic above reveals the Flint Hills of Kansas, with happy clouds in the background.  The photo does not capture the height of the hills, or the scope of the valley. Today, after passing Toronto Kansas, I have  returned to the Trans American Trail.  Around noon, I sat on the park bench in Eureka (pic below) before inhaling  smoked turkey barbecue and sweet tea for lunch at the Copper Kettle.

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In the early afternoon, the sky, the land and the road merged into a magical apparition, an inspirational illusion,  a delightful mirage.   Gnome boy and I rode uninterrupted on the central yellow strip  for miles at a time.  The land is so vast, open, and sweeping.   A flat, boundless, immeasurable, horizon, with no cattle, song birds or even ranchers driving farm equipment for the 360 degrees surrounding me. The Wind Maria whispered a secret tune in my ear.   “Devastating storms are just hours away.  Find shelter.”

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I kept checking the Weather Channel, and realized that El Dorado would be a shorter but safer day’s destination, especially with Gnomeboy hoping to rendezvous with his cousins at Walnut River. The pic below is a barn near Rosialia.  I included the picture because  the  speeding cloud is photobombing my still life.

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Outside the eastern city limits of El Dorado, I bought  beer from  the local convenient store.  We took a break at Riverside park, which borders both sides of the  Walnut River.  Gnomeboy’s cousins  were swimming in the river under the bridge.

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I parked my bike under the  E. Central Ave. Bridge, Rt. 54 (pic above) and watched the river flow.  Well, actually it was more entertaining  to watch the gnomes clown about with  bull carp and swim with their boots on.  Life is such a funny, funny riddle.  I’m  sitting in the City of Gold, surrounded by Gnomes, drinking Modelo Beer inside a paper bag,  I’m the emoticon  for “ye old bridge troll” .

I’m sharing my grog with Gnomeboy and all of his cousins.   Just like last year they are trading seeds, sorrows and  escapades. In the shade, with a cool, light breeze the Kansas gnomes stopped trading, lying, and swimming  after a few swigs of beer (pic below).  Most gnomes dozed off for an  afternoon siesta. The old fiesty gnomes told fart jokes in their Russian accent.  The punch line  always ended with a fart.  I had to leave.

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I climbed up to Rt. 54 to drop the beer can in a recycle bin.   As I looked up Cynthia, driving an old,  green pickup truck covered in bumper stickers stopped. She was wearing a red tie over a  long sleeve black shirt and bluejeans.   She opened the rusting door and devoutly asked, “Are you Lost ?”

With a smirk I replied, “Yes, but aren’t we all?”  Actually, my entire day’s ride had been  on Rt. 54, not a left or right turn to reach El Dorado, Kansas. Coronado in 1540’s  sought the “city of gold” but never found it.  I rode straight as an arrow from Iola.  Now I’m ten feet inside the city limits.

I did notice the coexist sticker on her tailgate, and  predicted that  her personal journey was about to be told.  Sister Cynthia, a Pentecostal Preacher  shepherded her flock near Rosalia, Kansas, the town I had  photobombed an hour ago.   After a lengthy monologue with me politely  nodding, she whispered, “My brothers and sisters are having a prayer service tonight with free food afterward.”  “Are you homeless?  Do you need a ride?”

I staggered backward from the buckshot,  hoping that I had only suffered a flesh wound.  I coughed, “No, but I do have a long way to go before I get back home.”  I felt a twinge of guilt… stealing a line from my blog, but I was  trying to take cover from her deadly aim at a homeless, old bridge troll.  I could see the morning headlines: Preacher arrested after dive-by shooting!

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Sister Cynthia  carefully thought about my words  and  then nodded with great approval.  “I will  pray for your safe journey forward.” And with that she was off to her prayer service. I staggered  back under the bridge to lick my wounds and be with my friends. Some days trekking lifts these monkeys off my back, but  I know… this circus  will never leave town.  I will take tiny steps .  I don’t want to step on gnomes while they sleep.  I will live one day at a time. I am on the Road to Recovery.

If thats not nice I don’t know what is.

I have a long way to go before I get back home.

Bushwackers

War. Huh.  Good God, Y’all. What is it good for?  Absolutely nothing!”

Edwin Starr 1970

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Missouri has been overrun  by many sovereign nations. In 1690 the French made treaties with the Kaskaskia and the Iroquois Indians. They  began colonizing  the Mississippi and Missouri  valleys with a small settlement at Fort de Charles.  Spain gained control in 1762 after the French and Indian War (Seven Years War ). The Spanish encouraged immigration from Europe and America but never made a profit from their  Louisiana investment. Danial Boone emigrated to Missouri during this time period.  Spain negotiated  the return of  Louisiana (Missouri) to France in 1800 through the Treaty of San Ildefonso.

Because of the Napoleonic  Wars, a cash strapped France sold  the territory to Jefferson ( The Louisiana Purchase, 1804).  Jefferson Davis and the confederacy attempted to take Missouri by military force during the Civil War (1861- 1865), but never succeeded.  Frank and Jessie James, Confederate “Bushwackers” a degrading name applied to anyone practicing the art of ambushing,  lived in Nevada,  Missouri.   The town I’m leaving today.   On May 23, 1863, Union soldiers burned the entire town of Nevada Missouri to the ground. I’m leaving early this morning, before any  trouble starts again, well really before any  traffic jams.

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My first morning stop was Fort Scott, Kansas,  about twenty miles to the West of Nevada. After five days of trekking, Missouri surrendered to my biking sortie, and waved  her white flag. I shot this picture above as I entered Kansas on Rt. 54.  If you look closely the bullet holes are visible. I’m back on the Santa Fe Trail, that military road of the 1830’s which Fort Scott protected. Last year just south of here, I marched into Pittsburg, Kansas  while biking a section of Rt. 66 . My next excursion is to rally  my troops and  overtake  the Trans American Trail (Route76) near Toronto, Kansas. Last year’s expedition ended, 100 miles west of here in Union Territory.

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After  touring  the Fort  I met Jessica Cook, The Chamber of Commerce Marketing Director and Events Coordinator.  I wanted to know if Maple Rd.( old Rt. 54) was paved.  Coincidentally, she had grown up on that road and said,  “You Betcha.”  In fact, her favorite fishing holes were on the Marmaton River which Maple Rd. parallels. She and her fiancé “rock fished” and “noodled” for catfish on weekends.

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I didn’t believe her.  She said, ” Let me take your picture for the chamber of commerce and I’ll  show you a catfish I  noodled (pic above).”

Afterwards, we chatted about Bleeding Kansas, a phrase coined by Horace Greeley after the passage of the 1854 Kansas-Nebraksa Act .  A law which caused great violence and  bloodshed.   Jayhawkers, “John Brown whose body lies smoldering in his grave,” fought Bushwakers (proslavery) prior to Kansas’ statehood and the civil war.  The Outlaw Josie Wells (Clint Eastwood) starts at Fort Scott with Clint as a  confederate Bushwacker done wrong.  The land I’m standing on today was the wild, wild West in 1855.

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The rest of the day had light winds, temp in the high nineties, and beautiful blue skies. I took old Rt. 54 to Uniontown and then Rt. 54 to Iola. The roads had mile long rolling hills, a 3 to 4%  road grade, with Big Bluestem Prairie grass on each side of the road ( pic above).  Just a wonderful  sixty mile day.  I relaxed in Iola’s McDonalds for an afternoon smoothie.   Because of strong storms to the West, I bivouacked at Amerca’s Best Value Inn. I was not going to be bushwhacked by Mariah again. Out here they call the wind Mariah. The storms did not strike Iola until sunset.  So in the late afternoon, I toured the city for photo ops (pic below).

img_7576The China Palace’s parking lot was packed with union flag waving pickup trucks , so I ate vittles there.  Not a confederate flag to be seen. The grub was crackerjack  and once again I chatted with Kansas Jayhawkers. Afterwards, it was early to bed, for sunrise bugle reveille . I was bushed from the riding and wacked from the Chinese beer…Boxing Cat Suckerpunch Pale Ale.

If that’s not nice, I don’t know what is.

I’ve got along way to go, before I get back home.